Black Magic

It comes in a sealed twist of cellophane. There is a tag tied with black ribbon: “Black Garlic – Superfood”.

The bulb is actually an unappetising brown. And I need to tell you that I am keenly skeptical of anything bearing “superfood” claims.

I undo the wrapping and sniff. The odour is earthy and has a strange quality that is both meaty and vinous.

I peel away some of the papery skin and break off a clove. Unlike dried garlic, it is soft and gives to the touch of my fingers.

I peel away its inner skin to reveal a clove that is truly, deeply black.

  

 Australia’s expert in edible and useful plants, Penny Woodward, has written extensively on growing and using organic garlic. In her book, Garlic, she explains that black garlic is not a special type: subjecting standard garlic bulbs to a steady, low heat for 30 to 40 days turns it black. Although it is sometimes called “fermented garlic”, the process doesn’t involve the production of bacteria or microorganisms as in true fermentation.

As for the superfood claim, Woodward cites research that says it is a powerful antioxidant and potentially useful in fighting some forms of cancer. (I remain skeptical and mentally underline “potentially”.)

Woodward says the flavour has been described as “moist licorice, balsamic vinegar, richly umami . . . garlicky prunes . . . tamarind, dark caramel, bitter and sweet”.

It’s not surprising that chefs love black garlic.

Philippa Sibley uses it in her dish, “Spaghettini, prawns, charred corn, green chilli, black garlic". In her book, New Classics, she describes the combination as “sweet, spicy, herbaceous and luxurious”.

This recipe is next on my list to try. If you make it before I do, I’d love to know how you would describe the flavour of black garlic.

SW – Post 2